For unagi lovers in Kumamoto, ‘Uemura Unagiya’ in Hitoyoshi needs no introduction. If you haven’t heard of it, you’re missing out. 

With an opening time of 10 AM, I went there for breakfast, only to find an unbelievable sight.

Just how much do people want to eat here!?

I arrived before the restaurant opened only to be greeted by the following sight.

The first person in line must have arrived at least an hour earlier.

Eel for breakfast, how fancy is that! (And yes, I’m one of them)

And there were over 60 people lined up… Just how much do they want to eat this stuff!

Eel isn’t something you can eat quickly like ramen, so how many hours are the people at the back waiting???

But there’s just something special about Uemura’s Unagi that makes people willing to wait in line for hours.

With over 100 years of history, their taste and track record are impeccable – everyone agrees.

Unfortunately, in July 2020, heavy rainfall led to complete flooding of the ground floor. 

In August 2021, they made a remarkable comeback and are now as popular as ever.

It’s THE Traditional Japanese House

There’s an irori (Japanese hearth) in the waiting room.

You can feel the over 100 years of history in the interior.

Looking at this photo, you might expect the scent of wood and earth, but…

 All you can smell is the sauce!!! 

In the waiting room, the aroma is so appetizing that it makes me want to have rice just with this sauce aroma as a side dish.

As you can see from the interior, it really is THE epitome of a traditional Japanese building.

Be careful not to kick anyone’s shoes while being led to the dining rooms, as if you’re anything like me you’re likely to be looking around too much.

There was also a wood-burning stove. I imagine during the winter, it provides warmth throughout the interior.

The smaller dining rooms can seat two groups, while the larger ones can accommodate about six.

Now, let’s move on to the drool-inducing main event.

Ah, No Wonder It’s Ranked No. 1

Now for the grand unveiling of the menu.

What’s this ‘uzaku’ （うざく）at the top left of the second row? 

Turns out, it’s grilled eel and pickled cucumber. There’s so much that catches the eye, but… I decide on

I’ll go with the eel bowl（’Una-Don’）and…

The eel rice (‘Unagi-Meshi’). I opted for medium size for both.

After placing the order, it arrived in about 10 minutes.

This is the Una-Don!

The eel bowl was served with..,

Kimo-sui (Eel Liver Soup)

A golden combo.

Ahhh, it’s irresistible.

Umm, oh dear.

It’s too good for me to put the taste into words.

Writer’s block.

 Since words fail me, I’ll just try sprinkling some sansho pepper on it.

Wow, the sansho pepper seems to be more about flavor than spiciness. It imparts a refreshing sensation, complementing the irresistibly fragrant charred sauce.

In between bites of una-don, I sipped on the liver soup. My deepest thanks for such a treat.

Una-Don & Kimo-sui, you’re the champions…

Hey! Where’s The Eel Rice!

Oh, can’t forget about this either.

Here’s the Unagi-meshi (eel rice). A classic dish where you can fully savor the deliciousness of both the eel and the rice.

With this, you’ll get the standard clear soup on the side.

Rice made in Hitoyoshi, Kuma. Even eating just the rice is incredibly delicious.

The dish came with five pieces of eel, resting in a generous pool of sauce.

With each bite, I found myself dipping the eel back into the delicious sauce at the bottom of the plate – a continuous cycle of flavor that left me reeling with emotion.

The sweetness of the sauce doesn’t overpower, but rather enhances the eel’s flavor. Eating a grilled eel drenched in thick, overpowering sauce would be such a waste, wouldn’t it? You might as well just drink some sauce. For those who want to truly enjoy the flavor of eel, unagi-meshi is the way to go.

Conclusion

The point of this article isn’t just to rave about how good the eel is.

What I really want to say is: If you’re going to Uemura Unagiya, get there by 9 AM!

There’s plenty of parking, but if you go in the afternoon, it’s so packed you won’t park there. 

Skip dinner the night before, wake up hungry, and go early. That’s the best plan.

 

Go to Uemura Unagiya, where satisfaction is guaranteed, and treat yourself.

 

Uemura Unagiya